Hi everyone!
You’ve probably already seen several tutorials on how to sew a face mask. I tried several versions (with a pocket to put a filter, different fabrics, etc.) but none was perfect to me. After several tests, here is my favorite version of the mask: adjustable, reversible and above all, one size fits all.
Before you start …
Necessary material:
- Nose adjuster
- Two squares of 100% cotton fabrics 8 inches x 8 inches (20 cm x 20 cm)
- Two elastics 1/8 inches (3 mm) wide and 11 inches (28 cm) long
- Color matching thread (in my case I always take white as my colorful fabric is always matched to a white side)
- Silicone adjuster for elastics
Material information :
Adjusters for the nose :
The adjuster avoids jamming the glasses, which is quite convenient. I like these which, unlike other models, are in one piece so no need to be cut and they don’t have small wire that comes out of the fabric after several washes. In addition, they can be found everywhere:
Adjusters for silicone elastics :
To make a face mask one size fits all, you had to find a way to adjust the elastic. I found these silicone adjusters on etsy :
These adjusters have a larger hole (one side is 2 mm and the other 4 mm). With 3mm elastics, they are perfect size and they hold really well.
Note: My order was incredibly long to arrive (2 days to leave China and arrive in Canada, then 1 month in Ottawa). I’ve associated that with the fact that we’re in the middle of a pandemic, but be warned that it could take a long time to receive.
Now that we have everything we need, we can get started!
Cut the pieces of the face mask
Fabric
Having worn face masks for several weeks, 100% cotton is the most comfortable. I tried several fabrics and I always came back to cotton. In addition, according to the various health agencies I have seen so far, they recommend a 100% cotton fabric. As for the colors, I like to use a colored pattern for one side and white for the other side. For the pattern, quite simple: cut two squares of fabric 8 inches by 8 inches (20 cm by 20 cm). A cutting mat is not necessary, but it’s a really quick tool to make perfect squares (I use it up to 10 thicknesses at the same time)!
Elastic
For the width of the elastics, I used 1/8 inch (3 mm) wide. Based on my experience and that of the people I made face masks for; The elastic 1/8-inch (3mm) wide is the most comfortable. A wider elastic does not suit everyone and is uncomfortable after a few hours, but again, this is my personal opinion. For length, cut an 11-inch (28 cm) lenght twice.
Add elastics adjuster
This step can be done last, however I add the elastic adjusters before sewing it for several reasons:
- It allows me to make several in advance and store them in a box without the rubber bands getting tangled
- It prevents the elastic from slipping into the seam when sewing the edges (you know when it’s late at night and something always happens to make you angry … well one of those times I passed the middle of the elastic under the knife of my serger)
To add the adjuster to the elastic, simply take a needle with thread and pass through the adjuster. Fold the elastic in half and pass through the fold. Go back into the adjuster and pull the needle and thread sticking out of the adjuster.
Sewing the face mask
Fix the elastics
Attaching the elastics to the fabric prevents them from unstitching once the mask is finished. Indeed, as the elastic is very thin, there will be only one stitch into the elastic and if it is close to the edge of the elastic, chance are that the fibers on the edge of the elastic will break and the elastic comes out. So, to avoid any bad surprises, we fix them on the fabric.
Sewing machine: At the sewing machine, make a very close zigzag point to secure the elastics about 1.5 cm from the edge of the mask.
Sewing the edges of the face mask
Sewing machine : Sew the four sides of the face mask, right sides together, with a straight stitch, leaving a 2 inch (5 cm) opening. Sew again with a zigzag stitch or an overcast stitch to complete the edge (while leaving the same opening).
Serger: Sew right sides together, all four sides of the face mask, leaving a 2 inch (5 cm) opening, with a 3 or 4 thread overlock stitch.
Turn over and add the nose adjuster
Turn the mask over through the opening left previously. Take out the corners (I like to use Chinese chopsticks to do this). Add the nose adjuster to the inside.
Topstitch the mask
Before topstitching, make sure the nose adjuster is approximately in the middle of the face mask. Usually I place it between the seam and the fabric and work around it by topstitching (to make sure it stays in place and doesn’t move). I always start with the side where there is the nose adjuster (a habit, but also because it is easier to replace the adjuster through the opening).
Sewing machine : Topstitch with a straight stitch working around the nose adjuster.
Fold the mask
The method I use to fold the face mask does not require marking. When making several at a time, marking all the masks to fold them is long enough. This is why I developed this method during an order I got.
- Fold the mask in half inwards
- Fold the top part outwards so that there is the same proportion of each fabric
- Unfold the top part keeping the fold of point 2
- Fold over to match the fold of point 2 with the middle fold line drawn by the fold of point
Second fold (bottom fold):
- Fold the bottom in half inwards
- Fold the bottom part in half outwards
Here is a video that illustrates the method.
Iron and topstitch the sides
Iron the folds, avoiding the elastics with the iron (the elastics can melt on contact with the iron).
Sewing machine: Topstitch the sides of the face mask with a straight stitch. To solidify the folds, I tie an additional knot in the middle at the fold.
There you go, we cut the threads and the reversible and adjustable face mask is finished!
